Aquatic turtles, such as the red-eared slider, are among the most commonly kept reptiles. They are fascinating to watch but are not easy starter pets. Many live 20 to 40 years, grow much larger than the tiny hatchlings sold in shops, and need specialized lighting and filtration.
At a glance
| Lifespan | Often 20–40 years |
| Adult size | Red-eared sliders often reach 20–30 cm (8–12 in) shell length |
| Habitat | Large aquarium with deep water, a dry basking area, heat and UVB light |
| Hygiene | Can carry Salmonella; wash hands after every contact |
Before you get a turtle
- Consider the long lifespan and the large, eventual tank size.
- Never release a pet turtle into the wild. Released red-eared sliders harm native wildlife and are considered an invasive species in many regions, and releasing them is illegal in many places.
- In the United States, selling turtles with shells under 4 inches (about 10 cm) as pets has been restricted since 1975 because of the Salmonella risk to children.
Tank setup
- Space: a common rule of thumb is about 10 US gallons (roughly 40 liters) of water per inch (2.5 cm) of shell length. An adult slider usually needs a very large aquarium or indoor pond.
- Water depth: deep enough for the turtle to swim and flip itself over, at least one and a half to two times its shell length.
- Basking area: a dry platform the turtle can climb onto completely.
- Heat: a basking lamp to create a warm spot of roughly 30–35 °C (86–95 °F). Keep water around 24–27 °C (75–80 °F) for most aquatic species, using a guarded heater.
- UVB lighting: essential. Turtles need UVB to make vitamin D3 and absorb calcium; without it they develop soft shells and bone disease. Replace UVB bulbs as recommended by the manufacturer, since output fades before the light looks dim.
- Filtration: turtles are messy. Use a strong filter rated for much more water than your tank holds, and change part of the water regularly.
Requirements differ between species, so confirm the exact species of your turtle.
Diet
- Young turtles eat more protein; adults shift toward more plants.
- A quality commercial turtle pellet as a base
- Leafy greens and aquatic plants such as romaine, dandelion greens and duckweed
- Occasional protein such as insects or small amounts of fish, depending on species
- Calcium supplementation as advised by a reptile veterinarian
Feeding in a separate container helps keep the main tank cleaner.
Salmonella and hygiene
Reptiles, including healthy-looking turtles, commonly carry Salmonella bacteria. Public health agencies such as the U.S. CDC recommend:
- Washing hands with soap and water after touching a turtle, its water or anything in its habitat
- Not kissing or snuggling turtles
- Keeping turtles out of kitchens and not cleaning tanks in kitchen sinks
- Taking extra care with children under 5, older adults and people with weakened immune systems, who are at higher risk of serious illness
Health warning signs
See a reptile veterinarian if you notice swollen or closed eyes, soft or peeling shell patches that do not heal, loss of appetite, bubbles from the nose, lopsided swimming, or lethargy.
Sources
- U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) guidance on reptiles and Salmonella
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration rule restricting the sale of small turtles (1975)
- Reptile husbandry guidance from veterinary and welfare organizations